Culinary IQ: Friday, December 9, 2011; Marshmallows

Soft, Fluffy and Good For You?

Marshmallows, good for you? Well not the modern version, but marshmallows most likely originated in ancient Egypt as a candy made from the extraction of the Marshmallow plant root. The confections is said to have been useful in the treatment of sore throats.


The French later began using the extract to make a confection that more closely resembles the modern marshmallow. The French version whipped the marshmallow sap until it became fluffy and then sweetened it. The process was very labor intensive and in the late 1900s they devised a way around the method by substituting egg whites or gelatin and modified corn syrup. The confection is called guimauve.

The development that made modern marshmallows so readily available was the invention of the extruding equipment by Alex Doumak in 1948. It gave us the cylindrical version we eat today. Most of the commercially produced brands in the US are manufactured by Kraft Foods and Doumak, Inc. in partnership.


In the last few years artisanal marshmallows have made a surge in popularity. You might think the process is difficult but it is not. Here is a recipe adapted from Martha Stewart:

Nightscotman's Strawberry Marshmallows

4 envelopes gelatin
1/2 cups strawberry puree
1-1/4 cups water
3 cups sugar
1-1/4 cups light corn syrup
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp orange flower water (optional)
powdered sugar and potato starch or rice flour for dusting 


Line a sheet pan with a 1′′ rim with aluminum foil. coat the foil with vegetable oil or non-stick spray. Fit the mixer with the whisk attachment.


In the bowl of a stand mixer, mix the strawberry puree, orange flower water (if using) and 1/2 cup of the water. Sprinkle the gelatin over this mixture to soften (aka bloom).


In a heavy saucepan, combine the sugar, corn syrup, remaining 3/4 cup water and salt. Bring to a boil and cook until it reaches the soft-ball stage (234-240 F).


With the mixer at full speed, pour all of the hot syrup slowly down the side of the bowl. Be careful as the mixture is very liquid and hot at this point and some may splash out of the bowl - use a splash guard if you have one. whip until the mixture is very fluffy and stiff, about 8-10 minutes. pour mixture into the foil-lined pan and smooth with an oiled offset spatula so that itʼs level with the top of the rim (it wonʼt completely fill the pan). Allow the mixture to sit, uncovered at room temp for 10 to 12 hours.

Mix equal parts powdered sugar and potato starch and sift generously over the rested marshmallow slab. Turn it out onto a cutting board or counter, peel off foil and dust with more sugar/starch mixture. Slice with a thin-bladed oiled knife or oiled cookie cutters (pizza cutter works even better). Dip all cut edges in sugar/ starch mixture and shake off excess. Marshmallows will keep several weeks at room temp in an air-tight container.


Variation - Chocolate Marshmallows:
Replace strawberry puree and initial 1/2 cup of water in mixing bowl with 1/2 cup of cocoa dissolved in 1/2 cup boiling water in a separate bowl. Soften gelatin in an additional 1/4 cup cold water in mixing bowl. Add cocoa mixture to mixing bowl and proceed with recipe as above. This will produce a marshmallow with a strong chocolate flavor, but somewhat denser than the strawberry version. To get a lighter texture as well as a lighter chocolate flavor, reduce cocoa to 1/4 cup.


Variation - Vanilla Marshmallows:
Replace strawberry puree and initial 1/2 cup of water in mixing bowl with 3/4 cup water and 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract or the seeds scraped from 2 vanilla beans.


Flavor Variations Ideas:
Purees
raspberry passion fruit pumpkin cranberry orange lychee
mango
cherry
banana
Liquid Flavorings lemon essential oil orange peppermint cardamom honey coffee
tangerine (using the juice in place of water) pomegranate 

Culinary IQ: Thursday, December 8, 2011; Fudge

Oh Fudge!

Can I just say I love fudge. If it is good, I don't care how it was made. There are several ways to make fudge and it is really your own preference as to which method to use. I have a couple of very simple recipes that produce a nice creamy fudge and are simple to make. On top of being easy the recipes make enough to have some to enjoy yourself and to gift to friends for a special occasion.


The history of fudge is unclear but most agree that it was definitely an American creation. It is thought to have originated in the late 1800s in Baltimore. As the story goes a candy maker was making caramel and fudged on some of the ingredients and the result was Fudge! By definition fudge is a crystaline candy and getting just the right size of crystal is key to getting a smooth creamy fudge.


Fudge is usually comprised of sugar, butter, some form of milk and flavorings. The ingredients are usually boiled to just the right consistency and then beaten to develop the crystals necessary for achieving the perfect texture and structure. I will admit that while I am tempted to try some exotic flavors from time to time, I have two standing favorites, chocolate and peanut butter. Both of which I have simple and delicious recipes for.


I just posted the recipe for my 5-pound fudge on www.culinaryroom.com yesterday and today I am going to give you the recipe for Grandma"s Peanut Butter Fudge which I found on www.allrecipes.com years ago and have been making every since. Again it is one of the more simple methods for making fudge but it makes a deliciously creamy fudge and enough to make nice gifts.  Here is the recipe:

Grandma’s Peanut Butter Fudge

Original Recipe Yield 1 - 9x13 dish

Ingredients

4 cups white sugar

1 (12 fluid ounce) can evaporated milk

1 cup butter

1 cup crunchy peanut butter

1 (7 ounce) jar marshmallow creme

Directions

1. Butter a 9x13 inch baking dish and set aside. Butter a 3 quart saucepan.
2. Place buttered saucepan over medium heat, and combine sugar, evaporated milk and 1 cup butter within. Heat to between 234 and 240 degrees F (112 to 116 degrees C), or until a small amount of syrup dropped into cold water forms a soft ball that flattens when removed from the water and placed on a flat surface.
3. Remove from heat and stir in peanut butter and marshmallow creme. Beat vigorously until smooth. Pour quickly into prepared baking dish. Let cool completely before cutting into squares.

To finish out the week I am going to discuss homemade marshmallows. While general thought to be difficult to make I think they are simple and will have most of your friends impressed!

Culinary IQ: Wednesday, December 7, 2011; Brittle

Sweet, Crunchy, Salty!

Who doesn't love the combination of sweet and salty with a lot of crunch? Nut brittles are the perfect confection to satisfy that taste. The cooking process to make nut brittle by nature involves the caramelization of sugar and roasting of nuts with the saltiness of the baking soda used to foam them and give you the trifecta!


Nut brittles are so popular in the United States and more prevalent than any where else that they are now believed by most to be of American origin, not true; however, we may have perfected them. History tells us the nut brittles may have been the first candy. While sugar coated nuts and fruits are some of the first recorded candies eaten by man and most likely for digestive reasons the modern nut brittle has little resemblance to it's ancient ancestor. Advances in technology including the refining of sugar and the common use of fire for cooking are two important developments that have allowed us to easily produce nut brittles.


Nut brittles usually contain one or more varieties of nuts, the most popular being peanut. In addition to nuts you will often see other ingredients such as coconut. The important thing to remember when adding ingredients is that if the ingredient is added in the beginning of the process is needs to be sturdy enough to hold up the the very high heat involved in making the candy. Other less stable ingredients can be stirred in at the end when the butter and vanilla are added. I like to add some candied ginger to my peanut brittle at this point.


Brittles make very good holiday gifts as they store easily in airtight containers and will last without refrigeration for several weeks. We all know how scarce refrigerator space can be during the holidays.
Here is my favorite recipe that was handed down to me by a friend several years ago. It is easy and makes a considerable amount of brittle:

Candy Lovers Brittle

3 cups sugar

1 cup light corn syrup

1/2 cup water

3 cups raw spanish or virginia peanuts skins on

1 T. butter

1 tsp. vanilla

2 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. salt

In a heavy 3-quart saucepan over medium heat, stirring constantly, cook the sugar, corn syrup and water to 280°F. on a candy thermometer (soft crack stage). Gradually stir in peanuts so mixture continues to boil. Continue cooking without stirring to 300°F. (hard crack stage). Remove from heat, add butter and vanilla, at once stir in baking soda and salt. Pour onto two large buttered cookie sheets, allowing brittle to spread itself. Cool. Break into pieces. 

Yield 2 ½ pounds

Now you have two items to put in your holiday treat packages and by the end of the week you will have more, see you back here tomorrow.

Culinary IQ: Tuesday, December 6, 2011; Chocolate Truffles

No Dog or Pig Needed

Yes the chocolate truffle is named after the truffle fungus and they are often priced nearly as high as their namesake but you don't need a well trained animal to sniff them out.  The deliciously rich and smooth confection was created in France in the late 1800's and gained wider popularity when a version was introduced in Britain in the early 1900's. The British version is still being made from the original recipe and is still sold today. The American version of the confection which resembles the pointed half of an egg was developed by San Francisco chocolatier Joseph Schmidt in the 1980's. The are now three types of chocolate truffles, European, Swiss and American. 

The price of commercially produced chocolate truffles is most likely because of the quality of the ingredients used or the exclusivity of the manufacturer. It is not because of any great difficulty in making them. The simplest version and the one I am going to give you today is the Swiss version. It is basically a hard ganache containing chocolate and heavy cream. The ratio of chocolate to cream is approximately 2:1. The cream is just brought to a boil and then poured over the chopped chocolate and allowed to sit for about a minute to soften the chocolate. It is then whisked to a creamy consistency and allowed to cool until firm. The ganache is then scooped out in equal portions and formed into balls. The balls can be dipped in tempered chocolate, cocoa powder or finely chopped nuts. That is the basic recipe.

Now if you want something more special you can add to the ganache mixture. Maybe you want to add and additional flavor like mint. or raspberry? All you need to do is add a little extract to the ganache mixture while whisking the chocolate and cream. You can also stir chopped nuts or candies into the mixture to give it more texture. To cover the truffles you can use tempered chocolate if you are comfortable tempering chocolate. You can also buy a higher quality coating chocolate, but I prefer the tempered chocolate as the coating chocolate has wax in it. Truffles can be rolled directly in cocoa or nuts or they can be dipped in melted chocolate and then in the cocoa or nuts to give them a nice snap when you bite into them.

Chocolate truffles make a perfect holiday gift. They are delicious and beautiful and are easily packaged in pretty holiday wrapping.  Don't be daunted by these wonderful treats. Have some fun and experiment with them. Here is a simple recipe for them:

1 lb. dark chocolate, cut into small pieces
1 cup heavy whipping cream, scalded
cocoa powder


Pour scalded cream over chocolate and let sit for a few minutes. Stir until smooth and chill. Form into balls and roll in cocoa powder.

Culinary IQ: Monday, December 5, 2011; Candy

What Could Be Sweeter

Who doesn't have a favorite candy? While candy is eaten year round, there is no time like the holidays to talk about the confection. There are a variety of candies that have become synonymous with the holidays, the candy cane or anything peppermint is probably the most celebrated. Making candy at home can be a fun and rewarding project and the results make excellent holiday gifts.


Where did candy originate? Well as far back as ancient man people were eating honey to satisfy their sweet tooth. Later fruits and nuts were dipped in honey, becoming possibly the first composed candy. Many of the ingredients used in candy including sugar and chocolate were at one time to expensive for anyone other than the wealthiest to afford. As sugar became more readily available and affordable, hard candies started to become prevalent. Then as chocolates prices started to come down it was added to the candy making process. Further development of technology which allowed preservation of candies made from dairy products allowed softer candies to become widely available.


This week I am going to discuss my favorite varieties of candies to make and give you some of my best recipes for gift giving. 


I will discuss truffles, marshmallows, brittles and my most favorite, fudge. All of these involve simple basic ingredients and procedures and can be beautifully packaged for holiday gift giving. After all you can give a sweeter gift than candy!


Tomorrow I will discuss the process of making truffles, don't miss it.

Culinary IQ: Friday, December 2, 2011; Poaching

To Poach

Today I am going to discuss the last of the seven classic French cooking methods, Poaching. When I am done discussing poaching I am going to give you the recipe for Roast Prime Rib of Beef that has become a Christmas tradition at our house and uses the the roasting method.

Poaching

Poaching can be described as boiled without boiling. It refers to the gentle, slow cooking that requires the piece to be completely covered by a hot liquid. The goal of poaching is to tenderize a tough piece of meat, or to use liquid to impart flavor to an ingredient during cooking. It is also used to hydrate certain dry ingredients that require liquid for cooking such as rice and pasta.

Traditionally, poaching starts with a cold liquid and the liquid is brought to the desired temperature as quickly as possible. The poaching liquid is normally flavored by aromates. The liquid is brought to a temperature that can gently cook the piece, but the one constant is that the liquid is never brought above the boiling point during the cooking process. However, the poaching liquid itself can be brought to a boil before the product is added.


The poaching process is categorized as follows:

Type: expansion, starting in a cold liquid. Concentration, starting in a hot liquid.
Humidity: humid
Color: white


The Poaching Process

• Prepare the piece. 
• Prepare the liquid for cooking.
• Immerse the piece and cook.
• Remove from liquid and keep covered.
• Finish the sauce.

Service

Poached foods can be served hot or cold, and are usually served with a sauce, either covered by the sauce or if whole, the sauce can also be served in a sauce boat.

Applications

• Meat or poultry
• Fish
• Vegetables
• Eggs
• Grains
• Pasta

So now you know about the seven classic French cooking methods, give them all a try.

Roast Prime Rib of Beef

Serves 10 to 12

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 ½ tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet

1 tablespoon dry Colman's mustard

1 8- to 9-pound beef rib roast , bone in

1 cup peeled and sliced (⅛ inch thick) yellow onion

Rub the seasonings on the roast in the order listed. Pack the sliced onion on the roast. Place the roast on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast in a preheated 450°F. oven 20 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F. and roast 1 hour more. Reduce the oven to 300°F. and roast about 1 hour more, or until the beef registers 115°F. for rare in the center when tested with a meat thermometer. Remove from the oven and allow to stand 15 minutes in a warm place. Slice and serve immediately with Wine Sauce for Beef

Wine Sauce for Beef

Makes about 2 cups

2 ½ cups beef stock or broth

½ cup dry red wine

Salt to taste

Bring the beef stock or broth and wine to a boil in a small saucepan. Simmer, uncovered, until reduced to 2 cups. Add any pan drippings from the rib roast to the sauce. Strain the sauce and skim off as much fat as possible. Add salt to fast. Serve with roast beef.

Poaching adapted from: Cuisine Foundations, The Chefs of Le Cordon Bleu. Publisher, Delmar Cengage Learning.

Roast Beef Recipe adapted from: The Frugal Gourmet Celebrates Christmas, Jeff Smith. Publisher, William Morrow and Company.

Culinary IQ: Thursday, December 1, 2011; Braising and Deep Frying

Braising and Deep Frying

Braising is becoming a very popular method of cooking as the trend to use more parts of the animal have become favored. Braising is a great way to cook the tougher cuts of meat, it not only imparts more flavor but results in a very tender finished product. Deep frying on the other hand is less in favor because of the negative health aspects of eating fried food, ignoring of course the recent trend for all things comfort.


Braising

Braising is defined as slowly cooking a large piece in a liquid over low consistent heat in a covered cooking vessel with an aromatic garnish. The finished goals of braising are to transform the connective tissues of tougher cuts of meat into gelatin, and to impart a particular flavor to the product.


The braising process is categorized as follows:


Type: mixed
Humidity: humid
Color: white or brown, depending on the searing of the product


The Braising Process

• Marinate larger pieces in either a raw or cooked marinade.
• Prepare the piece by larding and, if needed, tying with butcher's twine.
• Season and sear the piece white or brown.
• Deglaze and add the liquid just to the height of the solids.
• Cover, seal, and cook slowly in a medium oven. If available, use an extra deep pan with a tight cover.
• Remove the product and strain cooking liquid through a large strainer.
• Finish the sauce.

Service

A braise is served with its sauce, without the aromatic garnish, and is finished with a glaze to give it a glossy finish.

Applications

This technique is usually applied to large pieces of meat from older animals that require longer cooking times. These pieces should be seared before the liquid is added. This technique can also be applied to the whole fish and some vegetables, however, they would not require searing as a first. step.

Deep-Frying

Deep-frying describes the cooking of a tender piece in a large amount of hot fat or oil. The goal of deep-frying is the formation of a crust. The interior of the piece however should be moist and not oily. There are six types of fat or oil to choose from depending on what is being cooked: melted butter, lard or pork fat, beef or veal fat, goose or poultry fat, coco oil, and vegetable oil.

The deep-frying process is categorized as follows:

Type: concentration

Humidity: dry

Color: brown

The Deep-Frying Process

• Prepare the piece by seasoning or marinating, breading or coating in batter.
• Cook
• Drain on paper.
• Season while hot, serve immediately.

Service

Deep-fried pieces are traditionally served with an emulsion sauce, served on the side, never on the pieces.

Applications

Deep-frying can be applied to small pieces that are plain or have been dredged, breaded, or battered:

• Fish
• Shellfish
• Meat
• Eggs
• Vegetables
• Beignets

Tomorrow I will discuss the last classic cooking method, poaching and give you and excellent recipe using one of the methods. Use it for the holidays, it is perfect for a major celebration.


Adapted from Cuisine Foundations, The Chefs of Le Cordon Bleu. Publisher, Delmar Cengage Learning.