Culinary IQ: Tuesday, December 6, 2011; Chocolate Truffles

No Dog or Pig Needed

Yes the chocolate truffle is named after the truffle fungus and they are often priced nearly as high as their namesake but you don't need a well trained animal to sniff them out.  The deliciously rich and smooth confection was created in France in the late 1800's and gained wider popularity when a version was introduced in Britain in the early 1900's. The British version is still being made from the original recipe and is still sold today. The American version of the confection which resembles the pointed half of an egg was developed by San Francisco chocolatier Joseph Schmidt in the 1980's. The are now three types of chocolate truffles, European, Swiss and American. 

The price of commercially produced chocolate truffles is most likely because of the quality of the ingredients used or the exclusivity of the manufacturer. It is not because of any great difficulty in making them. The simplest version and the one I am going to give you today is the Swiss version. It is basically a hard ganache containing chocolate and heavy cream. The ratio of chocolate to cream is approximately 2:1. The cream is just brought to a boil and then poured over the chopped chocolate and allowed to sit for about a minute to soften the chocolate. It is then whisked to a creamy consistency and allowed to cool until firm. The ganache is then scooped out in equal portions and formed into balls. The balls can be dipped in tempered chocolate, cocoa powder or finely chopped nuts. That is the basic recipe.

Now if you want something more special you can add to the ganache mixture. Maybe you want to add and additional flavor like mint. or raspberry? All you need to do is add a little extract to the ganache mixture while whisking the chocolate and cream. You can also stir chopped nuts or candies into the mixture to give it more texture. To cover the truffles you can use tempered chocolate if you are comfortable tempering chocolate. You can also buy a higher quality coating chocolate, but I prefer the tempered chocolate as the coating chocolate has wax in it. Truffles can be rolled directly in cocoa or nuts or they can be dipped in melted chocolate and then in the cocoa or nuts to give them a nice snap when you bite into them.

Chocolate truffles make a perfect holiday gift. They are delicious and beautiful and are easily packaged in pretty holiday wrapping.  Don't be daunted by these wonderful treats. Have some fun and experiment with them. Here is a simple recipe for them:

1 lb. dark chocolate, cut into small pieces
1 cup heavy whipping cream, scalded
cocoa powder


Pour scalded cream over chocolate and let sit for a few minutes. Stir until smooth and chill. Form into balls and roll in cocoa powder.

Culinary IQ: Monday, December 5, 2011; Candy

What Could Be Sweeter

Who doesn't have a favorite candy? While candy is eaten year round, there is no time like the holidays to talk about the confection. There are a variety of candies that have become synonymous with the holidays, the candy cane or anything peppermint is probably the most celebrated. Making candy at home can be a fun and rewarding project and the results make excellent holiday gifts.


Where did candy originate? Well as far back as ancient man people were eating honey to satisfy their sweet tooth. Later fruits and nuts were dipped in honey, becoming possibly the first composed candy. Many of the ingredients used in candy including sugar and chocolate were at one time to expensive for anyone other than the wealthiest to afford. As sugar became more readily available and affordable, hard candies started to become prevalent. Then as chocolates prices started to come down it was added to the candy making process. Further development of technology which allowed preservation of candies made from dairy products allowed softer candies to become widely available.


This week I am going to discuss my favorite varieties of candies to make and give you some of my best recipes for gift giving. 


I will discuss truffles, marshmallows, brittles and my most favorite, fudge. All of these involve simple basic ingredients and procedures and can be beautifully packaged for holiday gift giving. After all you can give a sweeter gift than candy!


Tomorrow I will discuss the process of making truffles, don't miss it.

Culinary IQ: Friday, December 2, 2011; Poaching

To Poach

Today I am going to discuss the last of the seven classic French cooking methods, Poaching. When I am done discussing poaching I am going to give you the recipe for Roast Prime Rib of Beef that has become a Christmas tradition at our house and uses the the roasting method.

Poaching

Poaching can be described as boiled without boiling. It refers to the gentle, slow cooking that requires the piece to be completely covered by a hot liquid. The goal of poaching is to tenderize a tough piece of meat, or to use liquid to impart flavor to an ingredient during cooking. It is also used to hydrate certain dry ingredients that require liquid for cooking such as rice and pasta.

Traditionally, poaching starts with a cold liquid and the liquid is brought to the desired temperature as quickly as possible. The poaching liquid is normally flavored by aromates. The liquid is brought to a temperature that can gently cook the piece, but the one constant is that the liquid is never brought above the boiling point during the cooking process. However, the poaching liquid itself can be brought to a boil before the product is added.


The poaching process is categorized as follows:

Type: expansion, starting in a cold liquid. Concentration, starting in a hot liquid.
Humidity: humid
Color: white


The Poaching Process

• Prepare the piece. 
• Prepare the liquid for cooking.
• Immerse the piece and cook.
• Remove from liquid and keep covered.
• Finish the sauce.

Service

Poached foods can be served hot or cold, and are usually served with a sauce, either covered by the sauce or if whole, the sauce can also be served in a sauce boat.

Applications

• Meat or poultry
• Fish
• Vegetables
• Eggs
• Grains
• Pasta

So now you know about the seven classic French cooking methods, give them all a try.

Roast Prime Rib of Beef

Serves 10 to 12

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 ½ tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet

1 tablespoon dry Colman's mustard

1 8- to 9-pound beef rib roast , bone in

1 cup peeled and sliced (⅛ inch thick) yellow onion

Rub the seasonings on the roast in the order listed. Pack the sliced onion on the roast. Place the roast on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast in a preheated 450°F. oven 20 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F. and roast 1 hour more. Reduce the oven to 300°F. and roast about 1 hour more, or until the beef registers 115°F. for rare in the center when tested with a meat thermometer. Remove from the oven and allow to stand 15 minutes in a warm place. Slice and serve immediately with Wine Sauce for Beef

Wine Sauce for Beef

Makes about 2 cups

2 ½ cups beef stock or broth

½ cup dry red wine

Salt to taste

Bring the beef stock or broth and wine to a boil in a small saucepan. Simmer, uncovered, until reduced to 2 cups. Add any pan drippings from the rib roast to the sauce. Strain the sauce and skim off as much fat as possible. Add salt to fast. Serve with roast beef.

Poaching adapted from: Cuisine Foundations, The Chefs of Le Cordon Bleu. Publisher, Delmar Cengage Learning.

Roast Beef Recipe adapted from: The Frugal Gourmet Celebrates Christmas, Jeff Smith. Publisher, William Morrow and Company.

Culinary IQ: Thursday, December 1, 2011; Braising and Deep Frying

Braising and Deep Frying

Braising is becoming a very popular method of cooking as the trend to use more parts of the animal have become favored. Braising is a great way to cook the tougher cuts of meat, it not only imparts more flavor but results in a very tender finished product. Deep frying on the other hand is less in favor because of the negative health aspects of eating fried food, ignoring of course the recent trend for all things comfort.


Braising

Braising is defined as slowly cooking a large piece in a liquid over low consistent heat in a covered cooking vessel with an aromatic garnish. The finished goals of braising are to transform the connective tissues of tougher cuts of meat into gelatin, and to impart a particular flavor to the product.


The braising process is categorized as follows:


Type: mixed
Humidity: humid
Color: white or brown, depending on the searing of the product


The Braising Process

• Marinate larger pieces in either a raw or cooked marinade.
• Prepare the piece by larding and, if needed, tying with butcher's twine.
• Season and sear the piece white or brown.
• Deglaze and add the liquid just to the height of the solids.
• Cover, seal, and cook slowly in a medium oven. If available, use an extra deep pan with a tight cover.
• Remove the product and strain cooking liquid through a large strainer.
• Finish the sauce.

Service

A braise is served with its sauce, without the aromatic garnish, and is finished with a glaze to give it a glossy finish.

Applications

This technique is usually applied to large pieces of meat from older animals that require longer cooking times. These pieces should be seared before the liquid is added. This technique can also be applied to the whole fish and some vegetables, however, they would not require searing as a first. step.

Deep-Frying

Deep-frying describes the cooking of a tender piece in a large amount of hot fat or oil. The goal of deep-frying is the formation of a crust. The interior of the piece however should be moist and not oily. There are six types of fat or oil to choose from depending on what is being cooked: melted butter, lard or pork fat, beef or veal fat, goose or poultry fat, coco oil, and vegetable oil.

The deep-frying process is categorized as follows:

Type: concentration

Humidity: dry

Color: brown

The Deep-Frying Process

• Prepare the piece by seasoning or marinating, breading or coating in batter.
• Cook
• Drain on paper.
• Season while hot, serve immediately.

Service

Deep-fried pieces are traditionally served with an emulsion sauce, served on the side, never on the pieces.

Applications

Deep-frying can be applied to small pieces that are plain or have been dredged, breaded, or battered:

• Fish
• Shellfish
• Meat
• Eggs
• Vegetables
• Beignets

Tomorrow I will discuss the last classic cooking method, poaching and give you and excellent recipe using one of the methods. Use it for the holidays, it is perfect for a major celebration.


Adapted from Cuisine Foundations, The Chefs of Le Cordon Bleu. Publisher, Delmar Cengage Learning.

Culinary IQ: Wednesday, November 30, 2011; Pan Roasting and Sauté

Pan Roasting and Sauté

Of these two methods of cooking, sauté is definitely the more common method. Pan roasting is probably used more often the one would think but probably not correctly. Many cooks mistake pan-roasting for roasting, the difference being the use of a cover in the pan roasting process. If done correctly pan-roasting will result in an attractive, moist and flavorful product, if not done properly the result can be flavorful but not necessarily attractive.

Pan-Roasting

Pan-roasting is considered a variation of roasting, but differs from the traditional roasting process in that after searing, the product is roasted covered, creating a moist cooking environment. Aromatics are added near the end of the cooking process to add flavor and additional moisture. During the cooking process, there is an exchange of flavors between the different elements. which are then fixed by the fat present in the meat. Cooking with a cover prevents the steam from escaping, thus creating a flavorful, humid atmosphere. A glaze is applied at the end of the cooking process to replace the crust that would have resulted from straight roasting.

The pan-roasting process is categorized as follows:

Type: mixed

Humidity: humid

Color: brown

The Pan-Roasting Process

• Prepare the piece by trimming and, if needed, tying with butcher's twine.
• Season.
• Sear in a small amount of fat or oil.
• Cook covered in a medium oven (375°F.), turning and basting the piece.
• Add aromatic garnish.
• Finish cooking.
• Leave to rest covered.
• Make a sauce.
• Glaze.

Service

Pan-roasted items are traditionally served with the sauce on the side and accompanied by an elaborate garnish.


Applications

Pan-roasting is applied to large pieces of meat that are too tough for roasting but to tender for braising, such as a large lamb leg or game foul.


Sauté


Sauté or pan-fry is used to cook small, tender pieces in a small amount of fat. The goal of sauté is to create a crust that will maintain the natural juices of the piece.

The sautéing process is categorized as follows:


Type: concentration
Humidity: dry
Color: brown


The Sautéing Process

• Prepare the piece by trimming and drying.
• Season.
• Sear in a small amount of fat, usually clarified butter.
• Cook the piece by turning and basting.
• Allow to rest.
• Prepare the garnish.
• Make the sauce.

Service

Sautéed items are traditionally served uncovered, with all the elements together. 

Applications

Sautéing can be applied to small, tender cuts of meat:

• Poultry
• Offal
• Game
• Fish
• Vegetables

Tomorrow I will discuss Braising, a method that seems to be growing in popularity and Deep-Frying.

Culinary IQ: Tuesday, November 29, 2011; Roasting and Grilling

Roasting and Grilling

Yesterday I discussed the categories that are involved in the seven classic French cooking methods. Today I am going to get right down to the methods, starting with roasting and grilling.


Roasting


Roasting is used to cook large tender pieces in a dry atmosphere, in the oven or on a spit. One of the finished goals of a roast is to create a crust which adds color and aroma and ensures a moist juicy interior.


The roasting process is categorized as follows:


Type: concentration
Humidity: dry
Color: brown


The Roasting Process

• Prepare the piece by trimming and, if needed, tying with butcher's twine.
• Place on a rack in a roasting pan, season and generously cover with pieces of butter.
• Place directly into a hot oven.
• Turn, baste with fat or oil, and cook to desired doneness. For larger pieces, the heat would be reduced to allow the heat to penetrate without overcooking the outside, whereas smaller pieces would be cooked quickly to prevent overcooking by prolonged exposure to high heat.
• Allow to rest.
• Make a jus from the sucs, or browned cooking juices, left in the pan.

Service

A roast is traditionally served with a jus on the side, always uncovered, and sliced table side.

Applications

Roasting is applied to:

• Large pieces of tender butchery meats such as beef tenderloin, pork loin, and veal rack
• Poultry, usually whole
• Game, such as venison
• Large fish, usually whole
• Vegetables, such as onions and potatoes

Grilling

Grilling is the process of cooking a tender piece of meat by exposing it directly to a heat source in the open air or a well-ventilated space. 

The goal in grilling is the formation of a crust. Never pierce red meat during the cooking process because the break in the crust will allow juices to escape and dry out the product.

The grilling process is categorized as follows:

Type: concentration

Humidity: dry

Color: brown

The grilling process:

• Heat and clean the grill.
• Prepare the piece by drying and, if needed, tying with butcher's twine.
• Season or marinate in advance.
• Sear.
• Cook and mark the piece.
• Leave to rest.
• Lustrer with a cold composed butter or other fat or oil.

Service

Grilled foods are traditionally served with a hot emulsion sauce or cold compound butter. A sauce is served on the side, never on the meat, whereas butter is served on the meat or on the side.

Applications

Grilling is applied to:

• Small tender cuts of meat such as steaks, chops, cutlets, scallops, medallions
• Fish, whole or in pieces
• Vegetables (may be blanched first)

Tomorrow I will discuss pan roasting and pan-frying.

Adapted from Cuisine Foundations, The Chefs of Le Cordon Bleu, Publisher Delmar Cengage Learning.

Culinary IQ: Monday, November 28, 2011; Classic Cooking Methods

How Should I Cook This?

This week I will start a discussion of the seven universally recognized methods of French cooking. Known as Les Cuissons. The seven classic methods are Rôtir (to roast), Griller (to grill), Poêler (to pan roast), Sauter (to pan fry), Braiser (to braise), Frire (to deep fry) and Pocher (to poach).


Each method is made up of three categories specific to that method. The three categories are type, humidity and color. 


Type refers to how the flavor is developed during the cooking process. Flavor can be developed by applying heat in any of three ways; by concentration, by expansion, or by mixed, a combination of concentration or expansion. There are two types of concentration, direct or indirect. Direct concentration refers to the exposure of a food to direct heat, such as an open flame. Indirect concentration is when the product is placed in a recipient or covered by a layer of fat. In contrast to concentration, expansion uses indirect heat that is usually created by a liquid or steam. Mixed is the application of both concentration and expansion. For example, a piece of meat may first be seared by using concentration and then finished by expansion using liquid or steam to finish cooking.


Humidity refers to the amount of liquid that is used during the cooking process. A method can use a dry environment or a humid environment. A dry environment is one in which no additional liquid is added or accumulated other than a small amount of fat such as butter or oil. Cooking is usually done with the pot or pan uncovered. A humid environment is created by using a small or large amount of liquid. Cooking is usually done with the pot or pan covered to maintain the humid environment and to control the rate of evaporation of the liquid. 


Color refers to the process of giving the product color through the cooking process. The degree of coloring depends on the cooking technique, the product, the intensity of the heat being applied, and the length of exposure. Products can take on three degrees of coloring, Brun (brown), Blond (blond) or Blanc (white).


Once you are familiar with the three categories of type, humidity and color you can choose the best cooking method to accomplish your desired goal when cooking. Tomorrow I will start discussing the seven classic methods of cooking.


Adapted from Cuisine Foundations, The Chefs of Le Cordon Bleu, Publisher, Delmar Cengage Learning