Culinary IQ: Wednesday, November 16, 2011; Fillings

Why Don't You Fill Me Up ♫
Pie fillings are something I have a lot of opinions about. First and most important, I get totally frustrated when I make a pie for the first time and the filling doesn't come anywhere close to completely filling the size pie shell the recipe calls for. Another thing that totally annoys me is a pie filling that runs when the pie is cut, I will make an exception for some fruit pies. 


Enough of my opinions. I may have mentioned before that the recipes I enjoy making the most are simple, wholesome and hearty so forgive me for only discussing some of the most commonly made pies here:

Fruit: Fillings are made from cooked or uncooked fresh, frozen, cooked, canned or even dried fruit. Apple, Cherry and Peach are popular examples of fruit fillings.


Cream: The filling is pre-made from a custard or mousse, spread in a previously baked pastry or crumb crust. Chocolate and Coconut Cream are great cream pies.


Chiffon: The use of gelatin in their preparation distinguishes them from other types. Lemon Chiffon pie comes to mind.


Custard: The filling is uncooked custard poured over an unbaked bottom crust, without a top one. Both are baked together. Classic Pumpkin and Pecan Pie are examples of custard pies.


Main Dish: Main-dish pie options include quiches with egg, vergetable and meat fillings.


Tomorrow I will discuss some common toppings and on Friday I will give you some tips for making sure your Thanksgiving pies are the family favorite!

Adapted from Baking911.com

Culinary IQ: Tuesday, November 15, 2011; Pie Crusts

Starting with the Base

I have never met anyone that didn't like one kind of pie or another. While I have known very few people who don't like the crust, I think most would agree that a pie isn't a pie without a good crust. The key to making a delicious pie is using the proper type of crust. Pie crust is not hard to make contrary to what you might believe. The most important thing to remember is to not over work the dough. Over working the dough develops gluten resulting in tough pie shell. I will discuss the common types of pie doughs today in the order I consider easiest to most difficult and finish with specialty pie shells.


The crumb crust - The crumb crust is usually made from crumbled up cookies or crackers, the graham cracker crust being the most popular. The crumb crust can also be made from any dry and/or short type of cookies. The flavor of crumb crusts can vary greatly depending on the type of crumbs used. Crumb crusts require no rolling. The crumbs are mixed with melted fat and possibly sugar to add enough sweetness and then pressed into the pie plate. Some crumb crusts are baked and others chilled before adding the filling. Because crumb crusts are usually dry and crumbly they are best suited for fillings with a sturdy body, a cream pie or cheesecake for example.


The sweet or cookie dough - The reason this dough is called cookie is because it is often made in the same fashion as making cookie dough. The dough is delicate and sweet and can be chilled and rolled out to fit in the pie plate or tart pan or pressed directly into the pan. This dough is usually fully baked before filling. The sweet shell is best suited for sweet fillings.


Mealy pie dough - Mealy pie dough is used for wet type filling that will be baked in the shell, pumpkin pie, quiche or fruit fillings. The dough must be sturdy enough to hold in the liquids until they set. Mealy pie dough is made by mixing the butter into the dry ingredients evenly and then adding enough liquid to form a dough. Care needs to be taken not to over mix the dough once the liquids are added or you will get a tough dough. Mix only until a dough can be formed.

Flakey pie dough - This is the one that scares everyone! The secret to flakey pie crust is to only mix in the fat until there are several pea size pieces remaining and when the water is added to only mix until a loose ball forms. Using ice water is important as well because it helps keep the gluten from developing and keeps the fats solid. A properly made flakey pie crust will still have visible chunks of fat in it after it is rolled out. Flakey crust is best suited for fillings of firm fruit, nut or meat fillings.


Specialty crusts - a crust can really be made from anything as long as it compliments the filling and is adequate vessel for holding the filling together. Meringue filling is great for lighter fillings like chiffons. Nuts are also widely used in crusts. Potatoes can make a great crust for savory pies. Use your imagination, the pie is the limit.

Culinary IQ: Monday, November 14, 2011; Pies

Apple pie, American?

While pies are thought by many to be an American invention and even the National dish by some, pies actually date back to 9500 BC. I will concede that it is most likely we Americans who have perfected the art of pie making.


With Thanksgiving around the corner and pies being a traditional part of the holiday meal, I thought there would be no better time to discuss the dish. This week I will be discussing various types of pies and their components.


The crust - flakey, mealy, crumb, meringue.


The topping - cream, meringue, crumb, crust.


The filling - custard, cream, chiffon, fruit, nut, meat.


There are many dishes that could be considered a pie and I will try to cover the most common so come back here tomorrow for the beginning of the discussion.

Culinary IQ: Friday, November 11, 2011; Persimmons

Steam a Pudding

I originally planned on posting information regarding some exotic fruits this week for my discussion of fruits. I decided instead to stay with fruits that can be attained locally. Most of the fruits I have discussed this week have exotic histories but have evolved into local favorites.

The persimmon is just one such fruit. With many different varieties of persimmons available they have origins in many parts of the world including the American persimmon which is native to the eastern U.S. The persimmon is a true berry by definition. There are edible and inedible varieties.


Persimmons are typically in season in the U.S. in late October thru December making them the perfect addition to a winter or holiday meal. They are versatile enough to be used as a crisp addition to a salad where they add vibrant color or steamed in a pudding with a bouquet of fall spices.


Persimmons are rich in nutrients such as vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and fiber.


With Thanksgiving just around the corner, it is the perfect time to pick up some persimmons and make them part of your family tradition, be it a salad, a pudding or a centerpiece.

I would love to hear about some of your favorite persimmon recipes. Next week I will be discussing pies in anticipation of Thanksgiving.

Culinary IQ: Thursday, November 10, 2011; Figs

The Fruit or the Leaf?

Sweet, savory, fresh or dried, sliced, diced, baked, puréed or sautéed - there are a lot of ways to enjoy simply beautiful, simply delicious figs. Although considered a fruit, the fig is actually a flower that is inverted into itself. The seeds are drupes or the real fruit. Figs can be used in everything from appetizers to main dishes to desserts.


One of the oldest cultivated foods there are many interesting pieces of information about the fig, here are a few:

• The common fig probably originated in the fertile part of southern Arabia and ancient records show that the Sumerians and Assyrians were familiar with it.
• Figs were first introduced into the New World by Spanish and Portuguese missionaries, most notably to the West Indies in 1520 and to Peru in 1528.
• They were imported from the West Indies to Spanish missions in Mexico and subsequently spread to California with the Franciscan missionaries who planted them in the mission gardens at San Diego in 1769 and up the Pacific coast to Santa Clara by 1792, Ventura by 1793, and later on to Sonoma, giving the name Mission to those first dark purple California figs.
• The fig tree is the symbol of abundance, fertility, and sweetness.
• Figs made their first commercial product appearance in the 1892 introduction of Fig Newtons® Cookies.
• And, because of its high alkalinity it has been mentioned as being beneficial to persons wishing to quit smoking.
• Fig trees usually bare fruit twice in one season, once in the spring and again in late fall.

These are the facts about figs that I found most interesting. You can find many more facts about figs from the California Fig Advisory Board.

I love figs, I love them in Fig Newtons and I love to cook with them. I recently made a delicious orange-fig marmalade with them. One of my favorite things to make with figs is this simple appetizer:

Grilled Figs on Crusty Bread with Mascarpone and Honey

10-12 ripe black figs

1 loaf crusty baguette, sliced in 20 slices and toasted

Mascarpone cheese

Honey

Slice figs in half lengthwise and grill cut side down until caramelized. Spread each slice of toasted bread with a dollop mascarpone. Place a half of fig on each piece with grilled side up and drizzle with honey. Serve.

This is quick, simple and the perfect appetizer for that backyard barbecue. You can also put the prepared ingredients on a tray and let your guests make their own.

Fig trees are easy to grow, every yard should have one for the delicious fruit. I hear the leaves also make good clothing when you find yourself in a pinch!

Source: The California Fig Advisory Board

Culinary IQ: Wednesday, November 9, 2011: Apples

An Apple a Day

Today I am going to discuss the apple. The attractive appearance, flavor and flexibility of the apple make it a temptation in the kitchen that most cooks are unable to avoid. Dating back possibly to the beginning of mankind, the apple is the most cultivated of all tree fruits. The apple is a member of the rose family. The apple tree blooms in the spring and bears fruit in the fall. If stored properly, apples will last well into the fall. Apples are also commonly used in cooking and can be preserved for later use. China grows the largest number of apples followed by the United States and Iran is third. Because apple trees grow and produce easily in many climates, locally grown apples are widely available. Apples are seasonal, remember to check the season for you area. You should be able to find a list of fruits and vegetables and their seasonal availability in your area on the internet. Remember if it is not in season, it probably was not grown locally.


An apple a day keeps the doctor away? The health benefits of the apple are derived mainly from the antioxidant compounds and fiber they contain. Research shows that apples may be beneficial in preventing some forms of cancer, reducing cholesterol and preventing a decline in cognitive performance.


Apples are eaten fresh, cooked, baked in cakes, cookies, breads, and pies, made into sauces and can even be used as a substitute for fat when making fat free foods. One of my favorite recipes that uses apples is the following salad:

Cajun Barbecue Chicken Salad

Serves 4

4 boneless skinless chicken breasts

Spicy Barbecue Sauce

1/2 cup whole kernel corn, drained

1/2 cup diced red onion

1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese

1/2 cup diced red apple*

1/2 cup diced green apple*

Mixed salad greens

Ranch Dressing

Spicy Peanuts**

Grill chicken with spicy barbecue sauce until done, cool.

In a large bowl toss together the kernel corn, red onion, blue cheese, apple, salad greens and enough ranch dressing to coat.

Portion salad onto 4 plates and sprinkle with spicy peanuts.

Slice chicken breasts into strips and arrange on top of salads.

*To prevent apples from browning, after dicing place in a bowl of cold water with a tablespoon of lemon juice, drain and dry briefly on a paper towl.

**Spicy peanuts are usually available in the snack section of your supermarket or can be purchased at Superior Nut Co., 5200 Valley Rd., Los Angeles, CA (213) 223-2431

Have your apple today but don't cancel your doctors appointment!

Culinary IQ: Tuesday, November 8, 2011; Pumpkin

The Great Pumpkin

Before I discuss fruits and vegetables any further I need to say that I am a firm believer in locally produced and organically grown produce. Not only does it have more nutritional value but the taste is better and it is better for the planet. If you were thinking of having strawberry shortcake for Thanksgiving just remember, strawberries are not in season, the ones in the stores are being grown artificially in a hot house somewhere or shipped half way around the world. 


With Thanksgiving only a few weeks away it seems appropriate to discuss pumpkin now. Doesn't it make sense that pumpkin pie is a Thanksgiving tradition because pumpkins usually ripen in the fall and are easy to store for use later. As I stated yesterday, pumpkins are defined as a berry botanically and are part of a larger family of squash. There are many varieties of pumpkins ranging from small to large and varying in color. Pumpkins usually have a hard outer surface covering a thick flesh surrounding a weblike membrane containing a large number of seeds. The flesh is commonly used in pies, cakes, breads, soups, preserved and is also frequently used in livestock food.


To use pumpkins the seeds and membrane are removed then steamed in the skin until softened. The flesh is then scraped from the skin and pureed for use in recipes. Processed pumpkin is widely available and greatly reduces the preparation time of your recipes. Many people feel that fresh is better than canned but unless you have grown the produce yourself or bought is at your local farmers market and know that it was picked at peak ripeness it is better to buy canned. Canned fruits and vegetables are often the produce that has ripened on the plant but is to ripe to withstand the preparation for and shipping to the market.


Pumpkin pie is probably the most common use of pumpkin and is a staple for most Thanksgiving dinners. Pumpkin pie is an egg custard containing pumpkin, egg and milk. Any or all of the the following spices may be called for in the recipe: cinnamon, nutmeg or cloves.


Here is a recipe that uses pumpkin and a seed that I discussed in my blog yesterday, pecans. I found this recipe for Pecan Pumpkin Pie in a Gourmet Desserts cookbook over 20 years ago and have made it almost every Thanksgiving since. I feel it is really the best of both worlds!

Pecan Pumpkin Pie
Ingredients

9-inch pie shell

For pumpkin filling

3/4 cup canned solid-pack pumpkin

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

1 large egg, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons sour cream

1/8 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

For pecan layer

3/4 cup light corn syrup

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/4 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/3 cups pecans (5 1/2 ounces), chopped if desired

Special equipment: pie weights or raw rice

Preparation

Make pie shell:
Preheat oven to 375°F.

Line shell with foil and fill with pie weights, then bake until pastry is set and pale golden on rim, about 20 minutes. Carefully remove foil and weights and bake shell until pale golden all over, 6 to 10 minutes more. Cool on a rack.

Make pumpkin filling:
Whisk together pumpkin, brown sugar, egg, sour cream, cinnamon, nutmeg, and a pinch of salt in a bowl until smooth.

Make pecan layer:
Stir together corn syrup, brown sugar, eggs, butter, vanilla, zest, lemon juice, and salt in a bowl, then stir in pecans.

Assemble and bake pie:
Spread pumpkin mixture evenly in shell, then carefully spoon pecan mixture over it. Bake pie until crust is golden and filling is puffed, about 35 minutes. (Center will still be slightly wobbly; filling will set as it cools.) Cool completely on rack. Serve at room temperature.